| This is an HTML
reprint of the original factory installation of a solid state controller in a Citi-Car or
Comuta-Car. We have kept this information as close to the original document as possible
and is intended as informational ONLY. Please consult the installation instructions for
your particular controller. Editors Notes are inserted in Maroon.
|
Technical
Service Bulletin |
| SERVICE & PARTS DIVISION |
|
| INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION: SOLID
STATE CONTROLLERS |
MODEL:
"POWERFLOW 17" 36-48 VOLT - FOR COMUTA-CAR-CITI-CAR-SEBRING VANGUARD |
|
PLEASE READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS
ALONG WITH THE PMC INSTALLATION MANUAL THOROUGHLY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO INSTALL THIS
CONTROLLER. |
DATE: SEPTEMBER 1984 |
(MAXIMUM VOLTAGE
IS 48V ON THIS CONTROLLER.)
(EIGHT 6V BATTERIES) |
|
| STEP 1: Remove all heavy high power
cables from the batteries, motor, contactors and resistor coil. Lay them on the floor for
re-installation. Wire brush or buff with wire wheel to clean off all corrosion from the
ends. On Commuta-Car do not remove the two long cables coming from the front battery pack. |
|
| Step 2: Remove the first speed
resistor coil completely. (See Illustration #3) Resistor
coil may be located up under right rear of vehicle frame. Some are located just left and
forward of the right rear wheel. The resistor coil and ceramic insulators will no longer
be used. |
|
| Step 3: Remove the SP-1 contactor
and the 250-300 amp fuse from the vehicle. (See illustration #1
and illustration #2) The SP-1 contactor is the shortest of
the two contactors and has only one coil in the bottom of it. The SP-1 contactor will no
longer be needed in the system. Save the 250-300 amp fuse for re-use. The two small 12
volt wires from the SP-1 contactor should be bent back and taped. |
|
| Step 4: In front of the accelerator
rod you will see a cluster of micro switches and small wires. Unplug the wires from the
switches and remove the cluster, but leave the backing plate there. Save the parts that go
to the accelerator rod. Connect the purple, brown and red wires together securely
with suitable connector and tape. |
|
| Step 5: The solenoid controller (See illustration #4) should not have anything connected to it
accept one 12 volt+ wire on one small terminal and a 12 volt - wire from the other small
terminal to the frame. You may use the 12 volt + wire you bent back and taped from from
the SP-1 contactor. Now turn the key on and see if the solenoid will click. |
|
| Step 6: The tall contactor can now
be checked to see if it is working properly. Make sure the emergency brake is down. Put
dash switch in forward and contactor should click in either up or down and make all four
points contact. Put dash switch in reverse and all four points should switch to make
contact in the opposite direction. When the dash switch is put in neutral position none of
the points should make contact. |
|
| Step 7: The speed control box
provided with your installation kit is silver in color and has a control arm on it. The
three wires coming out of it are red, black and white. Mount the speed control unit to
operate with the ball and socket as it did on the old speed cam. Remove the ball from the
speed cam switch and attach it to the speed control arm. When depressing the pedal to the
floor position, the speed control unit should be in its full "on" position. This
will insure full throttle and speed when pedal is pressed to the floor. When pedal is
released from the floor the speed control unit must entirely in its "off"
position. If the speed control unit does not return entirely to its "off"
position, the unit will not operate, as the controller would have no signal when the key
is turned on. This is a safety feature of the controller so the vehicle will not move if
the pedal is being pressed down when the ignition is turned on. |
|
| Step 8: Install the new Power Flow
Controller up in under the vehicle rear frame to allow for air cooling but to protect from
water and mud. Facing the cooling fins down seems to be the best installation. Although
standing unit on its side will do well also. The unit is heavy, be sure to anchor it to
the frame securely. |
|
| Step 9: Install the new 250-300 amp
fuse holder in a convenient location inside of the under seat compartment. Protect from
accidentally being shorted out by seat belts buckles or any metal objects that might fall
down against the fuse and frame. (See High Power Wiring Diagram for your car installation
on location of fuse holder). (Suggestion, while installing the fuse holder, install it on
a piece of rubber large enough to be able to drape down over the holder and fuse to
protect from shorts. |
|
| Step 10: Now, before you install
the high power cables. This is a very good time to check your motor brushes. There are
four (4) brushes to check and some motors may even have to be removed to this. Brushes are
available at the factory. Also check the tightness on the nuts that are holding four (4)
cable studs on the outside of the motor. DO NOT allow the studs to turn while tightening
these nuts. |
|
| Step 11: HIGH POWER CABLE
INSTALLATION A. For vehicles with battery packs
under the seat, follow the installation diagram for the citi-car. ( Note: Plug diode -
illustration #4).
B. For vehicles with batteries to the front and to the rear,
follow the installation diagram for the comuta-car. (Note: Plug diode - illustration #4). |
|
| Step 12: VERY IMPORTANT - TEST
WITH VOLTMETER BEFORE KEY IS TURNED ON. Install 300 AMP fuse into new fuse holder. Put
the positive probe of your volt meter on the (+) side of the main power solenoid. Put the
negative probe of your volt meter on the controller (B-) terminal. If everything is hooked
up properly, you will read 48 volts. |
|
Step 13: If the charger negative
wire originally was connected to either the SP-1 or solenoid, it should now be connected
to the (B-) terminal on the controller. If the charger did not have a negative wire, but
was grounded to the frame internally, then a ground wire must be installed from the (B-)
terminal of the controller to the car frame. A 40 amp breaker would be advisable in the
line. After reviewing as to the proper ground to provide for the charger, then connect the
positive wire from the charger to the 48 Volt (+) battery (+) side of the the power
solenoid. On vehicles with batteries under the seat according to the Citi-Car diagram. The
positive charger wire would be connected to the battery (+) side under the passengers
seat.
Warning: SHOCK OR BURN HAZARD - While connecting charger as described in
this paragraph, CAUTION should be taken to prevent personal injury. |
|
| Step 14: To perform a preliminary
test as to whether the controller is working properly or not. Using a two wire socket and
an ordinary 110 volt 100 watt light bulb, connect the wires between the (B+) terminal and
he (M) terminal of the controller with the F&R contactor in the center or neutral
position. FOR SAFETY REASONS. .
. . . . rear wheels should be off the ground. Slowly
depress the throttle, light bulb should go from very dim to a brighter condition as pedal
is depressed. The controller is now working properly and the unit is ready to operate. |
|
| Special note for new 1209 series
MOSFET controllers: It is not necessary to connect anything to the A-2 lug, It should
however be covered by tape or plastic to prevent shorts. Please note with these
control units you MUST COME TO A COMPLETE STOP BEFORE REVERSING OR CONTROL FAILURE WILL
RESULT. |